Traditional Sourdough Baguettes

In France, this long and slender loaf with tapered ends is so treasured that a law was established in 1993 (French Bread Decree – “Décret Pain”) to protect its artisan authenticity and cultural heritage.

For vendors to use the label “Traditional French Baguette” (a legally defined term), the baguette must be:

• Sold where it is made
• Can never be frozen
• Only consist of water, wheat flour, salt and yeast or natural levain (no additives or preservatives)
• ………and must be prepared using traditional methods

Recognized by UNESCO, this bread is special and when made properly is incredibly good – featuring a thin crispy crust with a soft creamy, almost melt in your mouth open crumb.

I promise, you will enjoy this version of a “Traditional Sourdough Baguette”, developed through trial and error resulting in a few bread puddings along the way. They were good too!

This recipe produces an outstanding baguette that goes well with charcuterie meats, cheeses, deli sandwiches or as I like it, cooled and buttered. I also like it toasted after a day or two.

I hope you will sense the charm and develop a passion as I have for making this wonderful sourdough bread.

If you are new to Sourdough baking please visit these posts: Sourdough Boule, Sourdough Sandwich Bread and Cinnamon Raisin Sourdough Bread.

How to make Sourdough Baguettes

You will Need a Sourdough Starter

This Sourdough starter is made with water and all-purpose flour. Depending on the recipe being made, different flours are used to make levain, the portion of starter ready for use.

To create the levain for this recipe, take 50 grams(g) of starter, feed it with 50g of All Purpose Flour (AP) and mix well with 50g of water. Allow to rest covered, and in about three to four hours it should double or triple in size and be ready for use.

If you do not have a Starter and would like to learn how to make one, visit here.

Timing is……Almost Everything

Technique and ingredients are so very important when making baguettes, but when working with a Sourdough starter (levin), managing the proofing time is also key.

There are many things that can impact proof times – environment, time of year, strength of Sourdough starter (levain) and ingredients used. Some people use controlled environments like proofing ovens but variations in timing can still exist. Follow the formula and testing as noted below for a positive outcome.

• Timelines used for this recipe are a guide to be confirmed by various testing methods including the “poke test”, my preferred method
• Up to the end of cold fermentation, timelines are straight forward
• From the time of mixing all the ingredients (levain included)
  • 3 hours 45 minutes including all folds, then into the fridge for cold fermentation
  • Cold fermentation for 12 to 16 hours (this is the sweet spot for this recipe)
• After cold fermentation, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes including all shaping and rolling before baking
• Start using the poke test at minute 30 to test the dough for readiness (see Poke Test and other conditions in Section #7)
• Once dough is ready for baking, into the fridge for 5 to 7 minutes for easier scoring
• Score and into the oven it goes

Flour

French Artisan bakeries typically use French flours T55 or T65. The “T” stands for type of flour and the numeric stands for ash content – the higher the number the less refined. The ash content for these flours is approximately .50% to .55% and the protein content is in the 11% to 12% range respectively producing the very unique thin crispy crust and airy interior.

These flours are not common in North America, and while you cannot perfectly replicate their characteristics you can get very close through a blend of flours.

This recipe uses a blend of Bread and All Purpose flour to closely match that of a T65 flour; considered more of an artisan quality flour. The blend is 50/50 Bob’s Red Mill Artisan Bread Flour and Bob’s All Purpose Flour (AP). I use Bob’s Red Mill flours because Canadian All Purpose flours have a protein content that is closer to that of a Bread Flour, and while they certainly can be used, they take you further away from a T65 likeness. King Arthur flours are also a good choice, or you could use a Canadian Bread flour with a US made All Purpose flour. There are other combinations if you’re wanting to test the options, but for certain the flour used here nails it.

However, I did find a source for T65 flour if wanting to go down that path – T65 Flour milled in Quebec, which is Très bien!

Note: Whenever making anything Sourdough use unbleached flour.

Shaping and Rolling the Baguette

This is the heart and soul of baguette making. There are books, classes and countless videos that provide advice and demonstrate various means of shaping and rolling.

The method used here is to pre-shape into a ball followed by a classic 4 fold and roll technique. It’s not that difficult and you will get better with practice. It is described below in the recipe and also a link to a demonstration video. If you want to see other methods, go onto Youtube as there are many willing to share their technique.

(Please excuse the “Manhands” in photos throughout – I have to take the pictures! My husband is the “hand”-some hand model!)

Length of a Traditional French Baguette

There is no hard and fast rule here, however there is an annual competition in Paris, “The Best Baguette in Paris” (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) that requires the length to be between 21.65 and 25.59 inches long. As a side note, this is a very prestigious and coveted event with the winner receiving a one-year contract to deliver fresh baguettes every morning to the residence of the French President.

21 to 26 inches is not practical for most home ovens and therefore this recipe produces what is known as a Traditional Sourdough Demi Baguette; when rolled is in the neighborhood of 12 to 14 inches long.

Baguette Couche or Pan

A baguette couche or pan is used to support the shape of baguettes during the final proofing stage. The couche is a linen cloth that is folded into pleated ridges and floured to prevent sticking. The rolled baguette is placed into the floured couche to help hold its form and a paddle (flipping board) is used to roll the baguettes out to be placed into the oven.

You can purchase a couche online or use a tea-towel or even a pillowcase as I have in the past. I finally gave in to a baguette pan – oh the shame. The pan is covered with parchment paper and floured with the baguette placed on top into the grooves of the pan. When ready for baking, the baguettes along with the parchment paper are slid onto a pizza stone – the baguettes are not baked in the pan. While this is not traditional, the pan is cleaner, requires less handling of the baguette and is very practical if only making 3 at a time.

Use what works best for you.

Tools Used

• Digital scale – a must
• Pizza stone – as an alternative you could also double cookie tins
• Bench scraper
• Mixing bowl and casserole dish
• Lame or sharp serrated knife to score the baguettes
• Parchment paper
• Small bowl of water to keep hands moistened when stretching the dough
• Baguette couche or pan
• Silicone mixing spatula
• Spoon

Let’s get started:

Ingredients For 3 Traditional Demi Baguettes

• 423g (Grams) Flour – 50/50 Bread and All Purpose Flour. This recipe uses Bob’s Red Mill Artisan bread and AP flours as noted above. King Arthur flour will also work well or a Canadian bread flour and an American All Purpose Flour – all flours should be unbleached.
• 305g Water – This recipe uses spring water. If using tap water, chlorine can be removed by filter, boiling 15 minutes or leave out over night to evaporate. Chloramine which is found in some municipal water systems cannot be removed.
• 10g sea salt or other non iodized salt.
• 86g active Starter (levain). For this recipe the levain has been created using All Purpose Flour.

Step #1 Mixing the Ingredients

• Float Test: Add water to the bowl followed by a spoonful of levain. The levain should float if ready.

• Mix the rest of the levain into the water – mix well to remove clumps.
• Add flour and salt – mix ingredients well into a shaggy ball.
• Use a wet spoon to scrape dough off the spatula
• Timestamp when mixing is complete. Track total pre cold fermentation time – target 3 hours 45 minutes.
• Cover and rest for 45 minutes

Step #2 A Series of Stretch and Coil Folds

Note: This phase is about developing strength and elasticity in the dough to hold form, support oven spring and to help open the crumb. The method used is a Stretch and Fold around the bowl for the first two Steps, followed by 3 separate steps of coil folds. Coil folds are much gentler and best for baguettes. For the coil folds, move the dough to a flatter sided dish after completing the last bowl fold. Each fold/coil is separated by a 45 minute covered rest period except for the last one – immediately after the last coil fold the dough goes into the fridge for overnight cold fermentation.

• Note: Keep hands moist by dipping into the water bowl throughout the process.

• Fold 1 & 2 – 45 minutes apart: Take a side of the dough and stretch without tearing and fold over the dough – continue around the bowl for 8 to 10 folds until the dough tightens.  Cover bowl and rest for 45 minutes. Note: Turn the dough over and tuck into a ball before resting.
• Fold 2 – stretch and fold usually 6 to 8 times around the bowl. Dough should start to feel softer and smoother – be gentle. After this fold, move the dough to a flatter casserole dish for coil folds. Cover and rest for 45 minutes.
• Coil Folds 3, 4 and 5 – Slide both hands underneath the centre of the dough and gently lift straight up from the middle. As you lift, the dough will stretch, pulling away from the plate and the two ends will droop down under their own weight.
• Once it’s stretched and hanging, lay it back down so the ends fold underneath.
• Continue around all four sides of the dish.
• At some point the dough will be difficult to complete all sides. Just do what you can and continue the fold by gently rolling like a log with both hands. By the 5^th coil, you may only be able to coil two sides of the dough.
• Shorten the rest period after the 4th coil fold to match 3 hours and 45 minutes before the 5^th coil fold.

• After the last coil (5^th) tuck the dough into a ball, place back into a bowl, cover and into the fridge overnight. The dough should feel pillowy.

Step #3 Next Morning – Out of the Fridge after 12 to 16 Hours

• Remove the dough with a silicon spatula by gently lifting the sides around the bowl and then turning the bowl over to let the dough fall out. The dough may be sticky but try not to add flour at this point – it’s not the end of the world if you need to.
• Timestamp when dough was removed from the fridge to track total out of the fridge fermentation time – without changing anything in the process I have had dough fully proofed from 55 minutes to 90 minutes – total time out of the fridge.
• Use a bench scraper to divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. You can use the scale to measure this out or eyeball it.
• The dough needs to warm slightly – use the bench scraper to lightly form the dough into a ball and cover for 5 minutes

Step #4 Pre-Shaping the Dough

This video does an excellent job demonstrating the process.

• The goal here is to create a soft slightly taut round ball for further resting (do not degas).
• If dough is too sticky to work with, lightly sprinkle the dough and work area with flour.
• Using the bench scraper turn the dough onto the work surface, sticky side up. Lightly flatten and fold the edges into the centre. Turn the ball over onto the seams and using the bench scraper or hands, add tension to the ball.
• Cover the dough, seam side down for 10 minutes.

Step #5 Shape and Roll the Baguette

• Add flour to the side of the work area.
• Using your bench scraper, pick up the dough ball and place on the flour, sticky side up, dabbing slightly to coat the bottom with flour and move to the work area.
• Pat gently, elongating to the right/left and horizontally creating a rectangle.
• Pick up the top edges of the dough (furthest away) and pull the dough about two thirds down the rectangle and lightly press in the seam.
  • At any time if dough is too sticky to work with, just add a bit of flour or dab fingers in flour.
• Turn the dough around 180 degrees and perform the same fold again about two thirds down the rectangle and lightly press in the seam.
  • At this point, the dough should be naturally forming a log.
• From the top of the log, working from the left or right side, pull the dough over itself to the seam along the log pressing in the seam.
• Turn the log around and lightly turn the log toward you, and from the top edge, left or right side, pull the dough over itself along the log pinching in the seam – careful not to tear the dough.
• Rub a bit of flour along the log and set seam side down.
• To roll, place both hands side by side in the middle of the log, gently roll the dough while working both hands to the edges to elongate, pressing slightly harder on the ends to taper.
  • Perform this final roll several times to the desired length.
• Place the baguette on the lightly floured couche or as in my case, lightly floured parchment paper over a baguette pan.
• Once complete, cover the baguettes and allow to rest
  • 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes is the expected target total out of fridge proof time.
  • Perform the poke test every 20 minutes or so to test for readiness. I am usually in the 70 minute time frame but it does vary.

Step #6 Preparing the Oven

• The oven needs to be pre-heated and ready for the baguettes – my oven takes about 30 minutes.
• Place the oven rack at 1/3^rd level from bottom.
• Place the pizza stone or 2 cookie trays upside down on the rack to pre-heat.
• Place small soup pot or pan in the oven to pre-heat.
  • A cup of water is added to the pan/pot to create a blast of steam when the baguettes are placed in the oven.
• Set oven to 490 degrees Fahrenheit.

Step #7 Baguettes Ready for Baking

• Use time as a guideline only…….
• Poke Test: The poke test is a simple way to check if your baguette dough is properly proofed (ready to bake): Gently press your finger a tad less than a half inch into the dough. If the indentation springs back quickly, it’s under proofed (needs more time). If it springs back very slowly and partially, it’s proofed and ready to bake. If it doesn’t spring back at all, it’s over proofed…OOPS.
  • Additionally, baguettes should look slightly puffy, feel airy and have a slight jiggle. May also show bubbles on the surface.
  • When ready, place baguette dough into the fridge for 5 minutes for easier scoring.

Step #8 Scoring the Baguette

• Lightly sprinkle flour over the top of the baguettes (still in the couche/pan) and gently spread across the top.
• Use a sharp blade (a lame, razor or serrated knife). Dull knives will drag and wrinkle the dough. You may need to help hold the dough in place to prevent wrinkling.

• Hold the blade at a shallow angle (30°), not straight down – this creates a “flap” (ear).
• Make 3-4 diagonal cuts along the length of the baguette.
• Overlap each cut slightly.

Step #9 Into the Oven They Go

• Bring the pizza stone out of the oven and place on the stove (oven mitts required).
• Slide the baguettes with the parchment paper on top of the pizza stone pulling the parchment paper by the sides to straighten out the sheet and to evenly place the baguettes…OR…Gently roll the baguettes out of the couche and place directly onto the stone, seam side down.
• Into the oven. Add 1 cup of water into the heated pot/pan for a blast of steam – careful, it will splash some.
• After 10 minutes remove the water pan and reduce the heat to 465F. Allow the steam to escape the oven.
• Bake another 12 to 14 minutes to the desired darkness of the baguettes.
• Remove each baguette and place on a screen rack for cooling.
• Oven off, and allow the stone to cool before removing.

Congratulations you’ve done it.

When Best to Eat

Allow your baguettes to totally cool before eating. They are best within the first 2 hours afterwards. They can be frozen (when properly wrapped) and thawed for future enjoyment. Allow to completely thaw and bake directly on the oven rack for 15 minutes at 350F.

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